Stitch-down shoe



H. A. SCHOLZ STITCH-DOWN SHOE Dec. 8, 1936.

Filed Aug. 21, 1935 v mm /wymf 1777 5 3/917ZZ Dec. 8, '1936. v I H. A. SCHOLZ 2,063,633

I STITCH-DOWN SHOE Filed Aug. -2l, 1955 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Dec. 8, 1936 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE STITCH-DOWN SHOE Harvey A. Scholz, Milwaukee, Wis. Application August 21, 1935, Serial No. 37,180 14 Claims. (o1. 12-142) This'invention appertains to shoes, and more particularly to a novel stitch-down shoe and a novel process of making the shoe.

In certain types of stitch-down shoes, the upper is lasted inwardly over the heel seat of a sole member and outwardly over the sole member forwardly of the heel seat. This type of shoe is well illustrated in Patent No. 1,191,535, issued to A. H. Prenzel, on July 18, 1916. While this type of shoe has certain advantages, it is objectionable and does not produce a neat appearing shoe.

thas been proposed to mail a heel lift to the heel seat over the lasted in part of the upper in order to obtain a stronger and neater appearing shoe (see Patent No. 1,764,105, issued to A. L. Jung, on June 17, 1930). This construction is expensive and still fails to give the desired appearance at the slit portion of the upper where the same turns inwardly and outwardly in opposite directions, and further fails to give the desired strong and sturdy shoe, particularly at the shank in front of the heel lift, and the shoe tends to break at this point, due to the treatment of the sole member and the upper. Also, after the shoe has been worn a comparatively short length of time, the heel seat'tends to sink in where the heel lift covers the lasted in part of the upper and counter, due to the space left at this point. This causes a strain on the heel seat which weakens the shoe. The tacks also have a tendency to then work through the shoe to the inside thereof.

One of the primary objects of my invention is to provide a stitch-down shoe in which the heel lift on the heel seat is entirely eliminated, and in which integral portions of the sole member are provided for reenforcing the shoe at the shank forwardly of the heel seat, and for pulling in the counter and upper tight against the last at the heel seat.

Another salient object of my invention is to provide integral side pieces on the sole member adapted to be brought over the lasted-in part of the upper and counter, the side pieces forming means, as the same are brought in, for automatically shaping the shank of the sole member to the arch and for closing the slots in the upper at the portions where the upper is lasted inwardly and outwardly.

A further object of my invention is the provision of a sole member for stitch-down shoes having a reduced rear end to form the heel seat over which the counter and upper is lasted, with integral side pieces on the sole member connected thereto at the juncture of the heel seat and shank portions adapted to be brought over the lasted-1n part of the upper and counter, the side pieces functioning to brace the shoe at the slotted portion 10f the upper and at the slotted portion of the sole member, the bringing in of the side pieces automatically closing the slots in the upper and the sole member.

A further object of my invention is to provide means on the sole member for reenforcing the sole member and the shoe and for eliminating the formation of openings and slots inside the shoe and for facilitating the correct forming of the shoe to. give the desired close fit around the heel. A still further object of my invention is the provision of means for forming a pocket or recess at the heel seat between the side pieces of the sole member for receiving a resilient filler,

whereby a cushion will be formed for the oscalcis.

or heel bone of the foot, so that a comfortable shoe will be had.

With these and other objects in view the invention consists in the novel construction, arrangement and formation of parts, as will be hereinafter more specifically described, claimed, and illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which drawings:

Figure 1 is a perspective view of a last with a sole member attached thereto.

Figure 1A is a detail perspective view'of the rear half of a shoe, with one of the side pieces of the sole member brought in over the lasted-in part of the upper (the last being omitted).

Figure 2 is a view similar to Figure 1 with the upper on the last and the side pieces of the sole member brought in over the lasted-in part of the upper and counter at the heel seat.

Figure 3 is a view similar to Figure 2 with the resilient cushion in position.

Figure 4 is a perspective view from above of the improved shoe, after the upper has been lasted to the sole member.

Figure 5 is a perspective view of the complete shoe with the wear sole and welt strip sewed in place.

Figure 6 is a perspective cushion.

Figure 7 is a fragmentary longitudinal section through the improved shoe with the outer or wear sole in place.

Figure 8 is a fragmentary transverse section through the heel portion of the shoe with the view of the resilient outer or wear sole in place.

similar reference characters designate corresponding parts throughout the several views, the letter L indicates a conventional last to which is secured by tacks I 0 my novel sole member I I. As stated above, the last L is of conventional construction, and I lay particular stress on this due to the fact that I eliminate the use of special sole plates and the like on the last as contemplated in the manufacture of some stich-down shoes (see Jung patent, supra).

Particular attention is now invited to the sole member H, and at the outset it is to be noted that the same functions as a combined insole and middle sole.

The heel portion of the sole member II is provided with a horseshoe shaped slit or cut [2, and directly in rear of the slit or cut at the longitudinal axis of the sole, a sector shaped piece is removed from the sole to provide diverging rear edges 13, the purpose of which will be later set forth.

By providing the U or horseshoe-shaped slit or slot i2 and the cut-out piece, I provide a narrow heel seat M and independent side pieces l5 and i6. These side pieces l5 and I6 are integrally connected to the sole at the junction of the heel seat i l with the shank of the sole member.

After the sole member I I has been nailed to the last L, as shown in Figure 1, the sewed upper i1 is placed on the last and the side pieces l5 and IE on the sole member are raised. The upper with its counter 20 and counter lining 2! is now lasted over the heel portion of the sole, as at l8, and secured in place by nails or the like. The upper thus passes beneath members I 5 and I6 and is attached by lasting fasteners to heel seat member M.

The side pieces 55 and B6 are now swung inwardly towards one another over the lasted in part of the upper, counter, etc. until the diverging edges 13 abut at the longitudinal axis of the sole member. Tacks !9 are now employed for holding the side pieces I? and H5 in their swung-in position.

As the side pieces are drawn in, the same tend to pull the upper and counter tight in against the last and act to close the slits in the upper, on the inside of the shoe, and the slits in the sole member. By forming the sole member in the manner specified the shoe is not weakened at all, and in fact a stronger construction is had, as pointed out above.

After the upper, the counter 20, and the counter lining 2!, have been lasted in over the heel seat, the forward outturned part of the upper 22 is lasted over the inner face of the sole member and is secured thereto by stitching 23.

A pocket or recess 24 is formed on the heel seat between the side pieces l5 and I6, and received within this pocket is a resilient filler 25. This filler 25 is shaped to snugly fit within the pocket and can be secured in place in any manner, such as by the use of an adhesive.

When the filler has been placed in position, the outsole 26 can then be secured in place by stitching 21, which passes through the outer edge of the sole member H and the outturned'part 22 of the upper. A finishing welt strip 28 can be placed over the outturned edge 22 of the upper, if so desired, and the welt strip is held in place by the stitching 21.

The shoe can now be finished in any conventional manner.

The resilient filler 25 forms a cushion for the oscalcis bone and renders the shoe exceedingly comfortable to wear.

While I have illustrated the making of a shoe without a lining, it is to be understood that where a lining is employed, the same is lasted out over the sole member with the upper leather and is lasted in at the heel seat with the upper leather, counter, and counter lining. Obviously, after the out or wear sole is placed in position any desired type of heel 30 is secured in place.

From the foregoing description it can be seen that I have provided an especially simple and durable stitch-down shoe which will present a pleasing and attractive appearance, and which eliminates the necessity of providing lasts having special sole plates and certain costly operations.

Changes in details may be made without departing from the spirit or the scope of this invention, but what I claim as new is:

1. As a new article of manufacture, a middle sole for a stitched-down shoe having the heel portion thereof provided with slits adjacent to the margin of the sole member to define a restricted heel seat and inwardly bendable side pieces for movement over the restricted heel portion toward its longitudinal center.

2. As a new article of manufacture, a middle sole for a stitched-down shoe comprising a toe portion, a heel seat portion 01 restricted area, and side pieces integral with the toe portion disposed on opposite sides of the restricted heel seat portion for the full length of said heel seat portion and bendable over the heel seat portion toward its longitudinal center.

3. A shoe comprising an upper, a sole member including a toe portion, a shank and a heel portion, the heel portion having a restricted heel seat and side pieces integrally connected with the shank, means holding the rear portion of the upper in lasted position over the restricted heel seat, means holding the upper in lasted position outwardly over the marginal edge of the shank and toe portions of the sole member, the side pieces being secured over the lasted in portion of the upper, and a wear sole secured to said sole member.

4. A shoe comprising a sole member having a toe portion, a shank and a heel portion, the heel portion including a restricted heel seat and side pieces integrally connected with the shank, an upper having its marginal edges adjacent to the shank provided with slits, means holding the marginal portion of the upper rearwardly of the slits in lasted position over the restricted heel seat,

the side pieces being sprung in at the slit portions of the upper towards one another over the lasted in part of the upper, means holding the upper forwardly of the heel seat in a lasted position to the toe portion with the marginal edge of the upper turned outwardly, and an outsole secured over the toe portion and the side pieces.

5. A shoe comprising a sole member including a toe portion, a shank and a heel portion, the heel portion having a restricted heel seat and side pieces, the upper having its margin slit on opposite sides of the shank with the upper lasted in in rear of the slits over the heel seat, the side pieces being sprung over the lasted in .part of the upper and secured thereto, the upper forwardly of the slits being outturned over the shank and toe portion of the sole member, means securing the forward part of the upper in lasted position on the toe member, a filler fitted on the heel and seated between the side pieces, and an outsole secured in place over the toe portion, shank, filler, and side pieces.

6. A stitch-down shoe comprising a sole member including a toe portion, a shank and a heel portion, said heel portion including a restricted heel seat and side pieces integrally connected to the shank portion, an upper having its marginal edges slit on opposite sides of the shank, the upper in rear of the slits being lasted-in and secured to the heel seat, the upper forwardly of the slits being outturned over the shank and toe portion and secured thereto, the side pieces being sprung in at the slit portions of the upper over the lasted-in portion of the upper, said side pieces forming .a recess over the heel seat, a resilient cushion fitted in said recess, and a wear sole secured in place over the toe portion, shank, cushion and side pieces.

7. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in assembling upon a last a sole member having a restricted heel seat portion of less width than the toe portion and side pieces integrally connected with the toe portion and free from the restricted heel seat, assembling an upper upon the last, turning out the lower margin of the upper forwardly of the restricted heel seat and shaping the upper to the last and. securing said outturned portion of the upper to the toe portion, lasting the upper inwardly over the heel portion of the last and over the restricted heel seat of the sole member and securing said upper to the restricted heel seat, springing in the side pieces over the lasted-in part of the upper and securing the same thereto, laying a welt upon the outturned margin of the upper, an outsole upon the sole member, and uniting the welt, upper, and sole members.

8. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises assembling upon a last, a sole member having a toe portion and a restricted heel seat portion and side pieces integrally connected with the toe portion and free from the restricted heel seat portion, assembling an upper having slits in its opposite marginal sides adjacent to the forward portion of the restricted heel seat upon the last and lasting the upper in over the restricted heel seat, securing the upper to the restricted heel seat, springing the side pieces in over the lasted-in part of the upper and securing the side pieces thereto, turning out the lower mar.- gin of the upper forwardly of the restricted heel seat over the shank and toe portion of the sole member and seeming the same thereto, securing a filler on the heel seat between the side pieces, and securing an outsole in place over the toe portion, shank, and side pieces of the sole member and over the filler.

9. That improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises lasting and securing an upper directly to a sole member, said upper having its marginal portions from the heel breast line forwardly turned outwardly and from the heel breast line rearwardly turned inwardly, securing side pieces integrally connected with the sole member over the inturned marginal portions of the upper, fitting a cushion between the side pieces, laying a welt upon the outturned portion of the upper, and securing an outsole to said sole member, upper, and welt at the outturned portion of the upper and from the heel breast line rearwardly to the side pieces and the filler.

10. In a stitched-down shoe, an integral middle sole member having a heel seat and side pieces independent of said heel seat, and an upper having a portion of its margin lasted in over the heel seat, the side pieces being sprung in over the lasted-in portion of the upper and secured thereto.

11. In a stitched-down shoe, an integral sole member having a heel seat and side pieces normally lying on opposite sides of the heel seat and connected with the sole member forwardly of the heel seat, an upper having a portion of its margin lasted in over the heel seat, the side pieces being sprung inwardly over the outer face of the heel seat, and means securing the sprung-in side pieces over the lasted-in part of the upper.

12. In a stitched-down shoe, an integral sole member having a heel seat and side pieces normally lying on. opposite sides of the heel seat, an upper having a portion of its margin lasted in over the heel seat, the side pieces being sprung inwardly over the outer face of the heel seat, and means securing the sprung-in side pieces over the lasted-in part of the upper, the outer edges of the side pieces projecting beyond the side faces of the heel seat and beyond the upper.

13. In a stitched-down shoe, an integral sole member having a heel seat and side pieces normally lying on opposite sides of the heel seat and connected with the sole member forwardly of the heel seat, an upper having a portion of its margin lasted in over the heel seat, the side pieces being sprung inwardly over the outer face of the heel seat, and means securing the sprungin side pieces over the lasted-in part of the upper, the outer edges of the side pieces forming continuations of the marginal edges of the fore part of .the sole member and projecting beyond the marginal edges of the heel seat and the upper.

14. In a stitched-down shoe, an integral sole member having a heel seat and side pieces normally lying on opposite sides of the heel seat and connected with the sole member forwardly of the heel seat, an upper having a portion of its margin lasted in over the heel seat, the side pieces being sprung inwardly over the outer face of the heel seat, means securing the sprung-in side pieces over the lasted-in part of the upper, the outer edges of the side pieces forming continuations of the marginal edges of the fore part of the sole member and projecting beyond the marginal edges of the heel seat and the upper, and a resilient cushion fitted on the heel seat between the sprung-in side pieces.

HARVEY A. SCHOLZ. 

